it seems that i am having the same issue

@lokcy It's good to know they're still active. Thank you for the update.

no new updates?

@sim-plicity-dev Thank you so much for your kindness and promt answer.

@whoolkan

THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH! 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍

It worked a treat and now for the first time since release I have FFB on FH5!

@storris

A USB Reset is the controller forcibly removing itself from the USB bus.
This only happens if the controller detects a connection to the PC but is unable to communicate.
If the USB cable is physically removed from either controller or PC, the controller detects this and disables USB monitoring till the cable is reconnected.

As no resets are logged, this implies the controller has detected the connection is gone and is on standby. This means we need to look outside the controller for the cause of the physical connection dropout.

This could be hardware (cable, connectors, USB controller), software (Windows drivers, settings etc) or firmware (motherboard BIOS).

The controller does exercise the USB bus quite heavily with a thousand 2-way transmissions per second. Any latent issues with the USB subsystem will thus manifest first in devices that are heavy users.

Searching for "amd usb issues vr" brings up a few reports similar to yours.
This one details the steps that worked in his instance

Lo estado probando durande un mes en mi SW8+ y cuando fue mucho el giro por pérdida de control durante un tiempo prolongado de 2-3 segundos desconeecta cosa que no sucede con el estable

@miky-miky

@Sim-plicity-Dev So, try as I might I've been unable to reproduce the problem the last 2 days. Thank you for explaining the technical details, that stuff is always interesting.

I'll get the screenshots whenever I encounter the issue again, but I can answer the question; yes, the wheel remains bumping into the endstop until I switch USB mode from game to sim and/or back. Exiting the game doesn't help. I am using an external, powered USB hub to connect the devices on my rig to the PC.

@Ochso I have also found that sim mode works just as good as game mode, but in the interest of clarity I'm only using game mode as per the instructions.

@Sim-plicity-Dev
Hi,Hello,
sorry I completely forgot to comment. Indeed it is the QR on the steering wheel side that is starting to loosen up, in addition to that, the base of my aluminum profiled playseat was slightly unscrewed.. which makes with the power of the engine produced, it's a snap at each change of direction. Thank you again for taking the time to respond to me. And sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Wishing you a good day. Cordially.

@txinas

Easiest way is to

open a new command window, drag the Presets Installer executable into the command window type " /p:rbr" after the path (without the quotes, make sure to include the space) Hit Enter

If you have any issues, post a screenshot of the command window

@sim-plicity-dev so far after turning the wheel some degrees before start up no disconnect sounds! Seems perfect so far thanks!

@sim-plicity-dev
Its all good, it was an easy fix. Thanks for pointing me to the terminations, I dont think I would have thought to check them. Im just surprised that I didnt have any issues for the few years Ive had it until recently.

This thing is working better than ever now!

@sim-plicity-dev , you say me the upper limit of "Max Voltage Rise' for the SW30 would be around 14V.
When drift on Assetto Corsa I registered the value of 15.88V
I must be worried about this value of 15.88V?
Is there something wrong with the encoder or the wheelbase?MVR.PNG

Thank you!

Alas I cant really help you much further. The game for me is just too far down the path of the console port to hold my enthusiasm for it.. Wheels feel very much an add on after the fact.

Pure conjecture on my part but The polling rate (in game ) of the USB control device does seem somewhat lower so the wheel may well not being fed the input it desires.

Have you tried running the game with the wheel in "game mode" ?

That may well dumb down the wheel enough to hold off the feeling you have. ( like the older WRC titles) You will have to reconfigure the wheel in game as it is technically seen as a another USB wheel.

Good luck

@Sim-plicity-Dev
Thanks for your help

@Sim-plicity-Dev Thanks for confirming.

@Sim-plicity-Dev said in Upgrade from a SW8C+:

For this configuration, you would need to source the 2x LRS-150-15 locally (Mouser will deliver for below 40 GBP/46 EUR within the EU) while we supply the Team Wheel LV controller.

Ok, understood. Too bad mouser is b2b only, but I get the Idea.
992e5c0b-253d-4170-a1e6-36dce3c311c0-image.png

To be honest with you: I'm out. I've been very interested at the beginning, but it's been 5 months since you informed me about this controller, and neither the Wiki nor the store page have evolved since in terms of information.
There's no image other than the controller board, no schematic, not even a mockup of the housing, no list of the 100 possible things that might be included or would have to be sourced by myself.
That's too much of a gamble for me. Or may I'll have to accept that I'm not part of the target group.

Learning that the C+ line is beyond EOL doesn't give me the greatest confidence that any update would be future proof either, so I decided to call it a day go another upgrade path instead.

Which is a bit sad, because I was – and still am – the owner of a nice and well working DD base made by enthusiasts instead of a big industry player, but I guess I've reached a dead end here. (Also, f'in Brexit doesn't make things easier aswell. Which really isn't you fault.)

@sim-plicity-dev new update feels good on my sw7. Feels like some of the details are back, the last update seemed to make the wheel more muted compared to original ones. Maybe it's the bandwidth increase. Gives me confidence to upgrade to the 15 soon though knowing there is constant development going on.

This solution has stopped working for me. I haven't loaded RBR since I first used the patch and got the FFB working a few days ago, but I can't get FFB working now, no matter what I try. I haven't changed anything as far as I can tell.

If anyone else comes up with another answer, I'd be very interested.

@Sim-plicity-Dev Thanks for sharing these. I've been using them for iRacing for a while now but realise you were sharing above in reference to Oval racing - what would you tweak for open-wheel road racing and GT3’s?